Hong Kong’s endangered neons
When I lived in Hong Kong, I worked and lived for a time in Wanchai, one of the few neighborhoods where you can still find the handcrafted neon signs (opens in new window) that for so many people are a symbol of the city itself and that, before the advent of LED bulbs and modern safety regulations, crowded the streets with their exuberant glow. Almost all the signs have disappeared—fewer than 400 remain, compared with about 100,000 in the neon heyday of the 1980s—but they have been preserved in the work of photographer Keith Macgregor. A selection of images from Macgregor’s archive, dating from the 1980s onward, are being shown for the first time at Blue Lotus Gallery in Hong Kong. The exhibition (opens in new window), which opened today, accompanies the release of City of Lights (opens in new window), a book collecting hundreds of Macgregor’s unpublished photos in glorious full color. Blue Lotus Gallery founder Sarah Van Ingelgom described the book as “a record for future generations” as well as a tribute to the past.
“Hong Kong’s neon was never just signage—it was architecture, theater, and identity suspended above the streets,” Van Ingelgom told me over email. “As these lights vanish, so too does an extraordinary tradition of craftsmanship.”
Hong Kong’s neon signs are hand built by a rapidly diminishing cohort of master glassblowers who bend thin, hollow rods into Chinese characters, Roman script, and even, when the need arises, giant, sharp-toothed fish (opens in new window), before filling the tubes with neon and the other colorful gases that illuminate them. Barely any of these artisans have passed their skills down to the next generation, making archives like Macgregor’s valuable attestations to their handiwork.


