“A Day in the Life of Wayne Lynch” (1978)
Let’s get this out of the way up front: The Endless Summer, despite the ubiquity of its poster in dorm rooms across America, aged like milk. Surfers Mike Hynson and Robert August circle the globe like Christian missionaries in boardshorts, while director-narrator Bruce Brown tosses around the kind of casually racist dad jokes that could, depending on your temperament, derail a Thanksgiving dinner.
So when pro surfer Harry Bryant put me onto Wayne Lynch, the Aussie junior surf champion turned reclusive Vietnam draft dodger, I was psyched. In the 1960s, Lynch was the boy king of what’s known as the “shortboard revolution,” when traditional longboards were shrunk down into the shorter, more maneuverable boards that are still popular today. He took that maneuverability and pioneered a more athletic style of surfing. By the time filmmakers Jack McCoy and Dick Hoole caught up with Lynch to make this short film in the late ’70s, he had largely given up his superstar competitive career and was hiding out in the bush in Victoria, surfing empty deepwater reef breaks just for the hell of it. While The Endless Summer is a cheesy travelogue, A Day in the Life of Wayne Lynch shines as both a love letter to Australia’s rugged Surf Coast and a snapshot of a crucial moment in surf history.



